Mariachis and Mountains

Months before we left for Mexico, Matty told me about two things. He said not to be startled about the "Federales" (who BTW we saw giving Christmas gifts to the children of street performers) and he was very clear that we were not to pet the perros callejeros, the street dogs. Intellectually, I understood. But it was hard. I am a dog person. These poor homeless creatures! For the most part? honestly? They looked pretty content. They were dirty to be sure. I am certain I have ever seen so many intact male dogs, but they all mostly napped in the sunshine. They all looked fit. Matty also shared that the reason the dogs we saw were all so quiet was because the loud ones were shot. Can you say inadvertent adaptation? That is quite different from what I am used to, or expected. 

The dogs hang out in plazas and parks. All breeds. Mixed breeds. All shapes all colors. I read a blog written by an exPat who bonded with a street Dalmation! I totally related to the young girls who warily rubbed the toe of their shoes along the spines of the lounging dogs. The girls would cautiously drop tiny bits of their own festival snacks near a dog’s mouth and coo at them, but no one petted them. No one ruffled their ears or scratched their chins. If parents saw the girls near the dogs there were immediate stern looks and occasionally a sharp word. 

I would like to go on vacation sometime and not come home feeling like I have another “cause”. Go to Hawaii just to realize how terrifyingly big the plastic garbage gyre in the Pacific actually is. Go to Mexico for my son’s beautiful wedding and now back at home I feel like I need to follow the lead of Cesar Milan and open a dog haven. Mexico needs a dog catcher. That is not my job. 

Guadalajara is a vibrant living city. College kids walking to class, happening community wide events, gorgeous parks and amazing history. I especially enjoyed the Hidalgo Garden, which is the cultural epicenter of the town, with green gardens and uncountable art galleries.  

 The climate is enviable. In the winter my achy old knees loved the dry warmth.  Roughly 40F to 90F is the year round temp.  Far preferable to the damp 30F I am feeling today! There are bubble tea stands and 90s dance clubs. A city of ubers and techie types nestled into a valley between two big mountains. Fabi wanted us to see Lago De Chapala and it was a hoot! The biggest freshwater lake in Mexico and basically on top of a mountain! More shopping, more street food, michiladas (kind of a bloody mary thing) more mariachis! There is beautiful view of Nevado de Colima, which is Mexico's seventh highest mountain. Did I mention mountains?

Tlaquepaque (say tuh*lockee*pockee) is an amazing shopping village originally founded by the Totonac natives, who produced both everyday utensils and gorgeous art objects, way before the Spaniards ever arrived. Today, this bit of the city continues to be an artisan area filled with cute shops, galleries and street vendors selling handicrafts. Leather shops and antique stores nestled beside candy stores and amazing restaurants. It also had the biggest nativity scene I personally have ever encountered. It was complete with a turkey and chickens! 

 We got stuffed churros (which were a yeast dough! I thought they would be more masa like) and Buñuelos which were almost like a toffee cookie thing. DELICIOUS!

Mariachi is based out of Jalisco. It reminds me of like a polka band with better costumes. It was really neat for my first six or seven experiences, but srsly…is there a restaurant where you can just eat with quiet conversation? 

I do love accordions though… I want to go back. Maybe Puerto Vallarta next time?